JLF SERIES JOYSTICK

The JLF stick is a small-bodied Japanese stick with non-levered microswitches. It has an adjustable actuator plate that can be set for 4 or 8-way (more on that later). This stick incorporates the use of a pcb (TP-MA), which the switches are soldered to and requires a wiring harness (JLF-H) to be hooked up to the 5-pin connector on the edge of the pcb. The stock top for this stick is a 35mm balltop (LB-35), although we sell optional tops that will also fit (Seimitsu LB-39 "bubbletops"). You can also use a Sanwa bat top with the JLF (LB-30N), or a larger 45mm ball top (LB-45) with the use of a double-threaded "adapter". Our stock stick is the JLF-TP-8T, and includes the standard mounting plate, 5-pin wiring harness and a ball top (your choice of color).

The main thing to keep in mind when considering which "version" of this stick you need is that they are all basically the same stick, just configured differently. With the exception of 2 part numbers, the stick that we sell (JLF-TP-8T) can be configured into all of Sanwa's part numbers. Additionally, you can purchase optional components to make the other 2. All will be explained below, detailing what needs to be done to our stock stick to make the stick that you need... let's begin with a parts breakdown and dimensions of the basic stick: Any of the non-stock parts shown below can be purchased through our special order program. Email sales@lizardlick.com for further information regarding special orders.

JLF-TP-8 & JLF-TP-8Y
This is the "base" model for the JLF series sticks. Every other model stick will have these basic components to it. We've lumped these 2 together because they are pretty much the same thing, except that you have to turn the pcb 90º to switch from one to another...

Note that the 5-pin connector is on the same side as one of the mounting tabs...

Now here's the JLF-TP-8Y:

Now the 5-pin connector is on the side opposite the mounting tabs.

That's the only difference between these 2 model numbers. To make the TP-8 from our stock stick, just remove the mounting plate. To make the TP-8Y from our stock stick, remove the mounting plate and rotate the pcb. To rotate the pcb, you simply remove the bottom restrictor plate by gently pushing in on the 4 black "tabs" that hold it in, pull the pcb out, rotate it, and put it all back together.

JLF-TP-8T & JLF-TP-8YT
Again, we've lumped these 2 together, because they are basically the same thing with the exception of the pcb orientation. The difference between these 2 models and the base models is that they include a mounting plate (JLF-P1) and the pcb is turned 90º on the 8YT...

Note how the 5-pin connector is under the mounting plate...

Here's the JLF-TP-8YT:

JLF-TP-8Y-SK & JLF-TP-8S
Sanwa has thrown 2 more models into the mix... The 8Y-SK is the same as the 8Y, with the addition of a black shaft cover kit installed (JLF-CD)... the 8S moves the 5-pin header and the mounting tabs out from under an "S" plate (JLF P1-S)...

PCB HOOKUP
Included with the JLF joystick is the JLF-H 5-pin wiring harness. The wiring harness takes the place of the old-fashioned rats-nest of wires going to the joystick, since you don't have to run wires to the switches. It also means you don't have to run a common to each switch, which is nice. A genuine JLF-H will have a white "snap-on" connector which will only go on the 5-pin header one way. IF you happen to come across an old brown harness, those can go on both ways, but both harnesses use black as common, so just install it with the common in the same place as in the picture below...